Wednesday 4 April 2012

El Puerto de Santa Maria

Hola!

We have settled in, sussed out the train timetable and are looking forward to some new adventures. Always keen to exercise our legs we ventured along the coast to Puerto Sherry where there is quite a substantial marina with a modern feel about the place in stark contrast to the old town of el Puerto de Santa Maria. These murals at the marina are particularly impressive as too are some of the vessels that are berthed there.

































And of course, there are plenty of bars along the way just in case one has to rest awhile and where better than to watch the ferry leaving Cadiz en route to the Canary Islands.



One of the reasons that we have extended our stay in el Puerto is that this week is "Semana Santa" (Holy week) and every day from Palm Sunday to Easter Sunday there are large richly bedecked images and life size tableaux from the Easter story which are carried through the streets on huge floats (pasos) to the Cathedral accompanied by large processions. These rites have been going on in their present form since the 17th century when many of the images were created. The processions are organised by different "hermandades" (brotherhoods), usually with 2 pasos (sculptural representations from Christ's passion). The pasos are carried by teams of about 40 bearers called "costaleros" who work in relays as each paso can weigh up to 2 tonne. The pasos move with a hypnotic swaying motion to the rhythm of their accompanying bands and the commands of their bell striking leader.

The following pictures show just how ornate these pasos are and you can just see the feet of the bearers and the headgear that is worn as support.









The pasos have followers (penitents), many of them wear tall Klu Klux Klan like capes which cover their heads (except for eye slits).



As you can imagine, the streets were thronged with people and although a solemn occasion with incense filling the air, there was also a carnival atmosphere lurking beneath the surface. Everyone was dressed in their Sunday best and although we didn't stay until the end we felt that they would be celebrating long into the wee small hours. That was only the first night - this is going on every night all week.

We mentioned in our last blog about the beach close to the camp site and here it is.








Tomorrow we are going to Jerez de la Frontera on the train which is known for it's sherry bodegas, but Jerez is also Andaluca's horse capital and has a large "gitano" (Roma people) community that is one of the hot beds of flamenco.

More of that next week, until then adios!

Lots of love

Harry and Kath

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