Sunday 30 May 2010

The Bavarian Alps



The journey goes on!

We drove from Seefeld am Pilsensee to Garmisch-Partenkirchen in glorious sunshine and we were treated to some fantastic views of the Bavarian Alps. Garmisch-Partenkirchen (Gap) is the most famous resort in the German Alps, partly because it's at the foot of the highest mountain in Germany- The Zugspitze. Its location is marvellous, lying between the gentler Ammer mountains and the imposing peaks of the Wesserstein chain which form the frontier with Austria. The Stellplatz was easy to find and had an amazing backdrop.  It was relatively quiet and the best yet, providing showers, toilets, water etc and laundry facilities.




The cost of staying at the Stellplatz included a tourist tax of 2 Euros per person per day but for that we got a ticket which provided free bus travel in the area, free entry into the town's swimming pool and discounts on a whole host of other things. Highland Council could learn a thing or two on how to treat tourists!  We had planned to spend only 1 day in Gap but we were so charmed by the town we decided to stay for 2 days.. We have had hot  sultry days and  terrific thunderstorms at night and it really felt that we were in the Alps. Harry keeps looking at the Lederhosen - he is taking all this too seriously! We had planned to walk the Partach Gorge but the weather changed yet again and so we got the bus (free) into town and became tourists for the morning in the rain.




Italy is becomming more and more appealing - all we want is some nice settled weather but on checking the weather forecast it appears to be more settled here in Germany than where we are planning to go in Italy so we decided to move on to the town of Mittenwald which is only 20 km from Gap.

The campsite is about 5 km from Mittenwald but it is a lovely bike ride through the woods alongside the River Isar with only 1 or 2 hills so not too strenuous.




Mittenwald is a charming town and caters well for tourists.  It is an internationally reknown centre of violin making and everywhere you go you can see reference to this craft.







Whilst in Mittenwald we made the trek to Lautersee, which is a small lake and stands in the shadow of the mighty Wetterstein mountains and of course had the obligitory  Gasthaus which became a welcome retreat when the heavens opened (yet again). We did have a lovely morning though and at least it is warm rain now!






We have now decided to chase the sun so tomorrow (Monday) we are moving on to Italy. Neither of us can speak Italian but Harry assures me that German is widely spoken in Italy!  Maybe I should have left him in the stocks.

Speak to you all again soon.

Lots of love Kath and Harry xxx
  


Wednesday 26 May 2010

Bavaria


Hi folks - we are back on Wi Fi with a good strength so it's all systems go and we have uploaded the pictures for the last two blogs for your perusal.

On leaving Bamberg we travelled to Kinding, an area of Altmuhltal which promised good walking and cycling. Unfortunately the weather turned really bad with torrential rain and cold biting winds. To add insult to injury we saw on the TV that GB was basking in sunshine and summer had finally arrived. We did manage 1 or 2 walks though and Harry made friends with Mr and Mrs Mallard who used to visit us twice a day to be fed. Harry being the softie that he is fed them diligently on a mixture of seeds and nuts (from my store cupboard).

We left Kinding to travel to Seefeld which is located on Pilsensee. It is only about 10 km from where my cousin Eckhard and his wife Ulla live and we planned to spend some time with them over the weekend. The weather was still not great but we settled in and explored the surrounding area. The following day we woke up to glorious sunshine and Eckhard and Ulla arrived to pick us up and a plan was made. There is so much to see and do here in Bavaria so the next 3 days promised to be very hectic.

On Saturday we travelled to Schloss Neuschwanstein. This is a fairy tale castle which was built by King Ludwig 11 of Bavaria and the castle that Walt Disney reputedly recreated for his Disney World.




Again words cannot describe the experience. Although very busy with hundreds of people, it is a visit not to be missed. Harry and I did the guided tour of the castle and it was fascinating.








We then carried on to the nearby town of Fussen which is delightful with more incredible buildings. This one is the Town Hall and I eventually got my revenge on Harry. I put him in the stocks for calling me and old girl!












The  following day Eckhard and Ulla had planned a tour for us. First we drove to Ammersee where we boarded a paddle steamer which took us to various points around the lake before we disembarked at Herrsching.


From there we took the bus up to Andechs Abbey which has it's own brewery and beer garden. It was doing a roaring trade so we sat awhile and enjoyed a beer (more research). After a tour round the Abbey we walked back down to the boat through the forest.

Back on board for coffee and cake and the cruise back in glorious sunshine.

When we got back we noticed some others contemplating the trip!

We stayed overnight with Eckhard and Ulla and enjoyed a lovely meal. The next day we drove to the station to catch the train to Munich. En route we spotted a Floh Markt (Car Boot Sale) where Harry, much to his delight bought a Stein (German drinking mug) - this is to aid him in his research!!

We got the train to Munich and guided by Eckhard and Ulla spent the day wandering round the city seeing the sights.

We called into a Brau Haus where the beers are served in 1 litre tankards with the Oompah Band playing in the background entertaining the masses.

We walked through the city and enjoyed the architecture and Harry stood and listened to a quintet  playing classical music in one of the many squares while I visited a nearby Church.

We moved on to the English Garden which Ulla said looked like Hyde Park. We agreed with her until we reached the main green in the centre of the park where we saw a naked man jogging towards us. Apparantly it is allowed to sunbathe naked in the municipal park in the centre of Munich! Also in the park was a huge beer garden with approx 1000 people eating and drinking in the sunshine listening to yet another Oompah Band. So when in Rome.........................


We may not be here for Octoberfest but I think we have sampled it in the English Garden.

Back home on the train - a weary foursome. enjoyed yet another delicious meal that Ulla had prepared for us before going back to the campsite to prepare for our departure the following day.

Harry and I have had a wonderful 3 days here in this part of Bavaria. The weather has been superb - dare I say a little too warm at times - and we cannot thank Eckhard and Ulla enough for their hospitality and company. We sincerely hope that they will visit us in Scotland when we can return the compliment.

Till next time

Lots of love Kath and Harry xxx

Sunday 16 May 2010

Coburg / Bamberg



We left Hohenfelden on a damp drizzly day for the drive to Coburg. This would have been a very pleasant and picturesque drive if the weather conditions had been more favourable. Sadly, this was not the case and we had to endure thick mist with very poor visibility as we climbed higher and higher. And then like magic the mist cleared and the sun came out and we were treated to some lovely views and pretty villages on our last leg to Coburg.

We parked on the Stellplatz (this one was free but no facilities) but it was in the centre of the town and very handy. Now for all you history buffs (I know how much you enjoy these lessons) - Coburg is the birth place of Prince Albert of Saxe-Coburg and Gotha, husband of Queen Victoria and his presence is everywhere. After his death Queen Victoria commissioned this statue of him which is situated in the main square. Everywhere you go in this part of Germany there is amazing architecture and well preserved buildings. A visit to the tourist office to get information on all the local attractions and a quick wander around the town to plan the following day left us needing refreshment - so we decided to rest awhile in the sun to continue our research into local beers!




Back at the van we saw a motor home coming in with a GB sticker - bit of a novelty in these parts. Turned out to be a band of musicians from The Borders called 'Real Time' They were in Glenfinnan only 2 weeks previous visiting friends and were now on tour doing various gigs. A small world indeed.

The next day promised to be busy so we retired for an early night but were soon rudely woken by a lengthy thunderstorm with lots of lightening and torrential rain. It's all happening!





The following morning the rain had cleared and so we set off to explore Coburg. We climbed up to the castle on the hill 'Veste Coburg' home of the Dukes of Coburg for 6 centuries. This was quite a strenuous climb for us oldies so the planned visit to Schloss Ehrenburg in the afternoon was postponed until the next day. Soaking up the atmosphere of Coburg I decided it would be appropriate to watch 'Young Victoria' which is one of the many DVDs that we have with us on tour. The following day on a guided tour of the Schloss, which was visited frequently by Queen Victoria and houses many paintings of Victoria and Albert's children, a member of the party asked how many children they had. The guide apologised and said she didn't know but I was able to confirm that they had 9 children (as stated in the film)! It's difficult to describe the palace and the photos don't do it any justice. One amusing photo is of Queen Victoria's bedroom where she had a water closet installed. Reputedly the first of it's kind in Europe.














So onwards to Bamberg.  Bamberg is a World Heritage Site and we were both looking forward to the visit. Approx 1 hour's drive along quiet roads. We arrived at the camp site and it started to rain!

The next morning we cycled to Bamberg, padlocked our bikes to a tree and set off on foot to explore the town. Too many tourists and guided tours for our liking but we persevered. Some interesting buildings and Churches but to be honest, whether it was the poor weather of the mass of people, we were slightly disappointed and much preferred Coburg and Hann. Munden. So after as long day walking in the rain, we cycled back to camp in the rain. Tomorrow we move on again - hopefully the weather will improve.



Till next time - Bye

Kath and Harry xxx

Lower Saxony

On leaving Lowenhagen we decided to drive the short hop (approx 40 km) to Hann. Munden. Our home for the next 2 nights was going to be a Stellplatz. The Stellplatz is a place where motor homes can park up overnight, some have basic facilities, others not and they are a relatively cheaper alternative to camping sites. The Stellplatz at Hann. Munden was on a municipal car park with electricity, fresh water and waste disposal. Once we had sussed it all out we set off to explore Hann. Munden, the town we had been told not to miss. Hann. Munden has more than 700 hundred half timbered houses. Separated by some 6 centuries of history, they completely dominate the face of the town and their main attraction lies in the effect of the overall ensemble. The Rathaus (Town Hall) dates back in part to the 14th Centuury but the side facing the market (as shown in the picture)
was rebuilt at the turn of the 17th Century in the Weser Renaissance style.

To appreciate the beauty of Hann. Munden we climbed up to a 19th Century tower known as the Tillyschanze. For a small fee you can climb up the tower and from the top, enjoy spectacular views of the town. All this climbing on a warm sunny day was thirsty work so it was good to find a Gasthutte next to the tower where Harry could continue with his research in comparing the regional beers of Germany.  Of course I am helping Harry in his research! We stayed 2 nights in Hann. Munden and were very pleased that we had not missed this gem of a town.

Having been pleasantly surprised about living on a municipal car park, we thought we would try again. We had bought a book when we first arrived in Germany listing all the Stellplatzes so finding them was not going to be difficult especially with the help of our friend 'Tom'. We wanted to travel through Thuringia and the town of Bad Sooden - Allendorf seemed a good place to stop en route. Again the Stellplatz was excellent with only a few motor homes in situ. Now being Stellplatz experts, we soon got hooked up to the electricity, took on fresh water and disposed of our waste. Only 4 Euros to stay here with a bit extra for the electricity. This is the view from behind our van.







 

Bad Sooden - Allendorf is a spa town so when in Rome! Harry and I went to take the waters. Fantastic experience, indoor and outdoor bathing in temperatures of 32 C with various areas with jets and bubbles to pummel and massage your body. There was even a pool that had a wave machine which felt like we were swimming the Channel. Another crazy experience was in the outside pool. A circular area which, when you entered it, propelled you round like a washing machine - more like the wall of death in water. Getting in and out of the whirlpool was quite hairy and caused some hilarity to our fellow bathers - of course they are all experts in these matters and are regular users of 'the waters'. We stayed for 2 nights and enjoyed the various walks in the surrounding area.

On Saturday we travelled through Thuringia and were back on a site on the edge of a large reservoir. Although quite a large site it was well laid out and very tranquil. We appear to be a curiousity, mainly German and the occasional Dutch campers here. We have only seen one other GB sticker in the last 3 weeks. Even the girl in reception was surprised by our nationality and thanked me for being able to speak in German with her! We stayed at this campsite at Hohenfelden for 3 nights to catch up with domestic chores and to chill even though the weather wasn't too kind to us during this time. We had hoped to be able to publish this latest blog while we were at Hohenfelden but no Wi Fi on site so apologies for the lateness of our latest ramblings. We will try and get the next chapter on soon.

Lots of love

Kath & Harry xxx

Monday 3 May 2010

Lowenhagen- Lower Saxony- Germany

We arrived on Sunday afternoon after a 3.5 hour drive which included a break for lunch. All motorways apart from the last 7Km and what a contrast that was. Lovely little villages, folk sitting outside, waiving at us as we went through.
No more motorway driving for us now we have programmed Tom Tom to take us the slow scenic route.

We could not have chosen better with this campsite. Ralph and Deborah our hosts are a Dutch couple with a young family, who only bought the site last year and they are very welcoming. We had originally planned to stay for 3 or 4 nights but that has been extended to
9 nights.
The campsite is surrounded by woods with the river Nieme running through it, very tranquil.


Back on our bikes again this week but things are a little harder as we are in hilly country! Found our way to the nearby town of Dransfeld via the cycle route which took us through wonderful countryside and away from the roads. Our first cycle trip of the week gave us sightings of a fox, red squirrel,black stork and various hawks. All week we have enjoyed walks in the woods or cycle rides mostly in glorious sunshine.

We chose to visit the city of Gottingem some 20Km away - so that was a bus trip! What a lovely city with fantastic architecture and lovely old buildings.

Gottingem has a university  founded in 1737 by King George 11 of Great Britain in his capacity as Elector of Hanover. The medical students on obtaining their degree have a charming tradition.
Outside the Town hall there is a bronze statue of a Goose Girl called Ganseliesel which means the most kissed girl in the world. The newly qualified doctors have to climb the fountain carrying a bunch of flowers, present them to the goose girl and give her a kiss. We were fortunate enough to see a newly qualified doctor having just completed the task and being carried away, beer in hand, by his friends.


Early afternoon saw us sat in the Botanical Gardens, which are part of the university and tended by students doing degree courses there, enjoying a coffee. Later we took a lovely walk through the grounds enjoying the displays and the tropical houses with some exotic plants.
Being a student city there is a lively street cafe culture and nothing is more enjoyable than sitting with a cold beer (lost track of the different beers I have tasted-in the name of research)watching the world go by in the town square.

One of the days we cycled to Bursfelde which was a 16Km round trip-downhill nearly all the way there- but we paid the price on the return trip. A weary twosome trundled back into the campsite on an exceptionally hot and sunny day. 
Whilst in Bursfelde we came across the Kloster Bursfelde, which began life in 1043 as a Benedictine Monastry. It is still very well preserved and is open daily for visitors some of whom are walking the Prilgrim Way.


We walked down to the river Weser where we saw a number of canoeists and rowers. The information board on the river bank showed that you can canoe for a total of 168km along this river with regular nightstops available. (If anyone is feeling energetic - we have the information!)

This has been a very enjoyable extended stay in Lowenhagen. Our hosts, Ralph and Deborah Liemburg have made our stay here very special and we wish them every success with their business.

We normally continue our travels on a Monday, but this week we have decided to stay the extra day so we can celebrate our 2nd wedding aniversary in such lovely surroundings.

So with a glass of champagne in hand we say cheerio for now and WIFI permitting we will be back next week.
Lots of love Kath and Harry xx