Cinque Terre - Italy

"Strung along 18kms of serrated cliffs between Levanto and La spezia, the Cinque Terre is one of Italy's treasures. These 5 higgledy piggledy villages - Monterosso, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola and Riomaggiore are cut off by mountains, choked with olive groves and dry stone walled vinyards, where farmers have eked out a living over the centuries"

Well that's the introduction, courtesy of the Lonely Planet's guide and I'm ashamed to say that we'd never heard of the place but various folk that we have met along the way had recommended it to us, so here we are and boy we have not been disappointed!

We bought a 3 day pass so that we could walk the trails, get unlimited train travel in the region and take our time so that we could spend time in the villages. This meant that we could stop and start as we pleased and not have to rush it all in one day. It has left us absolutely exhausted but exhillerated. The following is a brief account of each of the 5 villages of the Cinque Terre (Five Lands).

MONTEROSSO

The westernmost and largest of the 5 villages with this enormous statue embedded into the rocks. It has a nice sandy beach and is favoured by locals and tourists alike. We spent the morning exploring the village and sat on a bench eating stuffed focaccia for lunch. After lunch we hopped on the train to Vernazza - a 5 minute ride (thus avoiding a 2 hour trek in hilly terrain) in temperatures in excess of 28C it was the sensible option!   

 VERNAZZA                                                                                                                                               

Population of only 1100 - a small village with a tiny harbour framed by the 1318 built Chiesa di Santa Margherita. The Church is a very impressive building, dominating the small harbour, however once inside we were surprised to find there was no grandeur as we have seen in many of Italy's Churches. It's beauty was in it's simplicity and after sitting awhile, left us feeling uplifted. We caught the train back to base still wondering how these houses cling to the rocks - Ah, tomorrow is another day.                                                           

              

CORNIGLIA                                                                                                                                             

Train straight to Corniglia - the smallest of the villages and least accessible by sea with only a population of 600. Corniglia's colourfully painted four storey houses cling to a ridge above the sea. After getting off the train we decided to do it the hard way (there was a shuttle bus on offer to take folk up to the village). We however, climbed the 387 steps to the top - I knew it was 387 because there is a plaque at the top congratulating everyone having made it up! - We were a bit concerned / amused to see the ambulance station situated at the top of the steps. Not requiring their service, but requiring sustinence we headed off to a cliff side cafe for coffee and pastries! Having climbed the 387 steps to get to the top, we then decided to go down a very steep and  challenging path to the rocks below and watched folk enjoying swimming and snorkling in amongst the rocks. We had to climb the path again to get back into the village where I met a young woman and her father who had spent the morning collecting mushrooms (not the sort you get in Morrisons). We ate our packed lunch and poked around the village's few shops before setting off again, in the heat of the midday sun, to walk the next bit of the trail to the village of Manarola (50 minutes walk as opposed to a 5 minute train ride) but first we had to descend to the station - Yes, you've guessed it, down the 387 steps we have already climbed. It wasn't that bad really and besides we are getting fitter and fitter. The walk to Manarola was beautiful - a coastal path with sheer drops to the sea.                                              

MANAROLA                                                                                                                                            

This charming village is perched on a sheer rocky spur some 70 metres above the sea on one of the most breathtaking parts of the coastline of the Cinque Terre. The greatest impact was when we rounded the final bend from the walk from Corniglia and we saw this amazing image of the village perched on the rocks as you can see in the photos. Time was spent wandering around the village and it's harbour. While waiting for the train we sat and enjoyed a carafe of the local vino enjoying the views. - Caught the train back to base.                                                                                                                                                      

RIOMAGGIORE                                                                                                                                     

Day 3 and still lots more to see. Took the train to Riomaggiore whose name is derived from the Rivus Maior which runs through it. According to tradition it was founded by some Greek refugees in the 7th Century. There are 2 sides to the village. The fishing village is the part facing the sea and the peasants (farmers) village is facing the mountain. As usual we went walkabout and found the continuation of the coastal path with steep climbs up to an observation point and enjoyed a coffee looking out from a terrace offering some fantastic views. Back into the village where we wandered up and down narrow streets when we came across a pond and on closer inspection saw a duck with 18 fluffy ducklings huddled together. Our final walk was from Riomaggiore back to Manarola along the Via del Amore (Lover's trail) along the coastal path which had been carved out of the rock. We enjoyed a late lunch accompanied, of course, with a glass of wine before catching the train back to base.                                                                                     

An exhausting 3 days but ones we were pleased not to have missed. We took 190 photos between us and it was difficult choosing the few for the blog. If you want to see more of the Cinque Terre you can visit http://www.cinqueterre.com/ 

So bye from us both from the amazing Cinque Terre.                                                                                  

Harry and Kath xxx

Cervarezza Italy - Week 2

Hello - as promised by the weather men the rain and storms have gone and the sun has come out again. But before all that - my ageing hippie of a husband has decided to smarten up his appearance as you can see - must be all those comments he has been receiving! 

On Monday we walked down to the village to get some pennies (here we go again I hear you say) not quite that bad - card in machine, takes details, no can do. Apparantly here in Italy not all ATMs do international withdrawals and it's a good job I read about this in the Lonely Planet's guide so we were forewarned. OK, decisions to be made - do we get the bus to the nearest town some 20 minutes away or do we try the next village. It was a nice day so after lunch we headed off to Busana along a track over the hill (preferable to walking along the road) and anyway the sign read 3.8 kms and a woman of my tender years can still manage 2.5 miles even if it is over a mountain pass.  We saw a few signposts along the way and disconcertingly they all read 3.8 kms!

Eventually we came to Busana and wandered down to the hub of the village. I stepped onto the grass verge to allow a car to pass when I felt a sharp pain under my toe - on closer inspection I saw a wasp flying out of my sandal. I hobbled to a wall, Harry (minus glasses) managed to get the sting out and all I could think of was how  am I going to make the 'Irish' 3.8 kms back over the hill and we still needed to get some pennies. Fortunately we spotted the bank and our mission was successful!

The local bar looked inviting and anyway I needed to recuperate. It's true what they say about a certain beer reaching those parts others don't - the trek home was pain free and didn't seem too long.

This week has seen us taking time out. We have been doing gentle walks here in the mountains, swimming, managed 40 lengths non stop and Harry did 80 non stop (OK the pool is only 15 metres long). Lots of reading and we had used this time as a period of reflection and thinking of loved ones back home.   

 

Last night the camp put on a production of the musical 'Grease'. It was really good and a lot of effort had been put into it. The music of Grease, the crew miming to the lyrics and lots of children in the production. 

This site has been so different from the others we have been at. We feel as if we have been living as part of the community. The site is set out like a hill top village with the hub housing a restaurant, well stocked shop, a simple bar which is also like a community hall where the the young ones play ping pong and the oldies play cards. As we don't fit into either of those categories (stop laughing) we use this space to check e-mails and keep in touch with the outside world. Outside is what they call the Arena where folk sit and chat during the day - just like a village square - there is always something happening there. Traditional Italian dance lessons, children's club and musical events in the evenings. The van is far enough away so if we don't want to join in we still have our peace and quiet and the views - too beautiful to describe.                                                

I think we have become a novelty in the local village - everyone seems to know us (the man with the long hair) - but we get a very warm welcome wherever we go and they try to help us improve our Italian. La Tavernetta, on the edge of the village, is a great place to sit awhile and watch the comings and goings of the local community. It is not only a bar but the local Tabaccheria so there is always a long stream of people arriving by car to buy their cigarettes or lottery tickets and a quick fix of caffeine before causing chaos by reversing on to the main road amidst blasts of horns from oncoming traffic and a lot of hand gestures (which don't appear to be rude!). It's great theatre and all for  the price of a cappuccino.                                       

Tomorrow we are moving to the area around La Spezia - a town not too far away from here and from where we hope to do the Cinque Terre -but more about that next week. But before then 2 views that will stay in our minds, the Pietra at sunrise and in all it's majestic glory. 

So until then, lots of love - Kath and Harry xxx

PS - He still has the hair - it's just a bit tidier! 

Cervarezza Italy

Cervarezza is a small village in the Apennine mountains of Reggio Emilia. Our campsite is situated at 3250ft and offers fantastic views of the mountains and surrounding area.

After leaving Pisa we used the motorway to get to La Spezia then headed inland for a 70km drive up and over mountain passes and hairpin bends. Although quite warm during the day the temperature drops early evening and we have had to dig out our fleeces and long trousers from our storage boxes to keep us warm - even had to get the quilt back on the bed.

The campsite is terraced and we are on the highest terrace on the site. The following pictures show the views at different times from our spot on the terrace. A bit different from the sardine packed site at Pisa.

We have had a quiet, relaxing week, partly because of a change in the weather - 30 hours continuous rain accompanied by thunder and lightening storms. The weather forcast for next week looks more promising so we have decided to stay on and hope to explore the national park on foot and bike.                                  

      

See you all next week when we hope the blog will have a bit more content than this week.                       

Lots of love

Harry and Kath xx

Pisa

Hi, well here we are in Pisa and the camp site is literally a stone's throw from Campo dei Miracoli (Field of Miracles) where the Cathedral, the Baptistry and the Leaning Tower of Pisa are all situated.

It was very busy with tourists and stalls selling the usual tourist items and of course street vendors selling fake handbags and watches. We decided that an evening visit to the tower would be nicer than climbing the 300 steps during the hottest part of the day, so we booked our tickets for 8.00pm and we were not disappointed. we were rewarded with the mellow colours of the surrounding countryside. 

The Cathedral was beautiful (both inside and out) and very well preserved. .

Walking around Pisa was lovely, narrow alleyways leading into Piazzas which housed more interesting buildings.This picture is of the Palazzo dell'Orologio (Clock's Palast).

According to legend, in 1288 count Ugolino and some of his male relatives, under suspicion for high treason, were left to starve to death in the tower.

Along to the fruit market where we filled our rucksacks with a variety of different fruits all at a fraction of the cost I have to pay at Morrisons! My favourite have been the white peaches - big, succulent and very tasty.

A visit to Lucca was high on the agenda this week and was easily achieved. The train station was only a 5 minute walk away and there were frequent trains running to and from Lucca. We decided to make a day of it so again it was an early start. Lucca is a city within a city, the old part is inside a 4.2km circular fortified wall with gate ways dotted around the 12 metre high walls.

The newer part of the city is a sprawl of buildings spreading outwards from the walls. Once inside the walls it was very peaceful with little or no traffic noise. We went in search of Piazza san Giovani because we had been told by a couple we met in Lake Garda that they had attended a Puccini musical evening in the Church in the square. Lucca was home to Puccini and where he wrote one of my favourite operas, Madame Butterfly. He is commemorated by this statue in one of the Piazzas. We were fortunate to get tickets for later that evening.

At the Church of Saints Giovanni e Reparta there are some wonderful archaeological excavations on display with these mosaics dating back to 1st century BC.

We spent the rest of the day wandering around taking in the sights. In the Piazza Anfiteatro there was a stage being erected for an Abba tribute concert  (open air entertainment - I can live with).  A weary twosome we found a small bar to enjoy a glass of wine (or two) before heading off to the concert. Suitably revived, we made our way to the Church where we enjoyed a selection of arias from Puccini's operas. The acoustics were wonderful and the setting sublime.

Train back to Pisa and called into the camp bar for a drink only to find there was entertainment by the pool in the shape of a magic show. Italy knows no bounds - Abba, Puccini and the magic show all in one day.

Approx 4km from the camp site is the San Rossare Natural Park and Estate. We had planned to cycle there and after making a packed lunch and packed our rucksacks we heard the rumble of distant thunder. We hung back to see what would happen and were glad that we did. Within one hour our pitch was like a swimming pool and surrounding tents waterlogged. The following day, with another packed lunch we headed off to San Rossare. A place of beauty and tranquility with a wide variety of animals including wild boar, deer, foxes, badgers, bats, porcupines and numerous types of birds. 

A very different place from the centre of Pisa with the thousands of tourists all trying to hold up the leaning tower of Pisa for that perfect photo shot. On the way back we stopped off at the supermarket to buy a bottle of the local Chianti - it's a hard life. But we have to take the rough with the smooth. we have to put up with days like this but then again we don't often get the opportunity to sit in one of these.

Until next week bye for now - Lots of love Kath and Harry xxx